Timberframe vs ICF

Timberframe vs ICF

This post touches on one of the choices you encounter when researching self-builds, the build methods themselves. There are two main branches, traditional brick/masonry vs quicker ICF and then timberframe vs SIP. Basically concrete vs timber. We're not using fibre glass or exploring straw bale, mud or other methods here.

So if you've attended any of the shows you'll already have seen samples of Timberframe and ICF. I've been thinking about the merits of each but come to the conclusion, as have others, that the method doesn't really matter as much as the construction company themselves. It's akin to buying cattle, don't check the cattle, check the seller!

So, the most important thing is to get a feel for the company themselves, how long have they been around, have you read about them in online forums and was the feedback positive? As you'll be paying a deposit, it might be worth getting a credit check done, especially if there is a dip in the market as some are on shakier financial footing and won't tell you.

I've approached MBC Timberframe myself and liked what they have to say and what's been said about them online. So for that reason I'll be lining them up on my shortlist. I'm also not as drawn to 22 meters squared of concrete as I am to Scandinavian Timber & Warmcell insulation from a carbon footprint point of view. The thought of living in a timber house appeals to me more even though from the outside after building, it's not going to be possible to tell the difference. There are fire safety concerns but using the right materials and mitigating solutions such as watermist suppression systems can be designed in.

So, I'm not going to 'diss either method as both are good and provide a solid home. Do a bit of research and see if you can visit a home they built and ask about any issues encountered, and more importantly, how they went about fixing those issues. That's the nugget that can swing me, problems will occur but will a company roll up their sleeves and put it right straight away or not?

Whatever method you end up with I hope it's a smooth build and you're happy with the end product after 1, 2 or 5+ years afterwards. There should be no creaks or cracks if the work is solid or any dampness intruding into your dream home after it's complete. You may have to hang kitchen units and your 60 inch TV a slightly different way but as long as that's it and it performs well, who cares?!

Zombieland

Zombieland

Disclaimer: I recommend consulting with an expert about any information provided below before making any changes to your home, especially with regard to the use of generators.

So, this post is about one of those weird musing I get from time to time! I'm planning a Passive House which will rely on various fuel sources to keep it warm, provide hot water, keep fresh air flowing and to cook with / store food. But what if there is a power cut? Unlikely you may say. Well, I'd nearly agree but I lived through a few power cuts as a kid in Ireland and it's not nice! You only realise how much you take it for granted when it's gone and I always remember the moment it comes back on as you feel only then that normality has returned.

So, the scenario I was thinking of centres around Gas. Huh, I hear you say?!! I thought you said Electricity would cut out? Well, think about it, we have an aggresor Gazprom/Russia in control of most of the natural gas supplying Europe. If they use that for leverage in 2028 for example then turn it off for 5 days at a time as negotiations drag on, what is everyone going to do? You need to cook and heat your home, so everyone plugs in an electric fire or four and buys a new electric cooker / water heater. Guess what happens to the electricity demand? Plus in many countries over half their Electricity is generated by Gas and you've a big spike, inadequate supply so each country will shut down their inter-connectors to preserve shut out any non-domestic Electricity demand. We regularly import Electricity in Ireland and while we've a big stake in a huge station in Manchester but no plans for any new power plants in Ireland, we'll be at a major disadvantage: end result - California rolling blackouts. Remember we're also seeing an increase in the number of Datacenters, who do you think will win the argument for access to limited electricity in the short term, big business or citizens? You can bet your 10 cent that money will talk and priority will be given to businesses. And these are 24 hour setups, not ones they can give it back to us in the evenings or weekends!

So, that's all the doom and gloom so what can we as individuals do about it? Knowledge is one key element. Check out the following links to learn a bit more:

So this link shows all power outages in Ireland - there is an Android / iPhone app also, get it!
https://www.esb.ie/esb-networks/powercheck/

Next, there is a list of advice for those at risk of storm damage interrupting their supply:
https://www.esbnetworks.ie/power-outages-updates/be-prepared
Some good advice here for short term outages.

I contacted ESB Networks about the equivalent of the following portal they have in the UK:

http://www.gridwatch.templar.co.uk

They responded that I should contact the Eirgrid group and sure enough they have a portal and it's actually very good, much better than I suspected:

http://www.eirgridgroup.com/how-the-grid-works/system-information/

http://smartgriddashboard.eirgrid.com

So a few surprises, wind encompasses up to 1,000MW which was shocking, I assumed it was much lower, even on a better day. The highest ever was 28-01-16 when we got 2,683MW from wind alone! The highest demand ever was 21-12-10 with all the snow @ 6878MW, usually it's @ 5,000MW, so nearly half came from wind last January! With regard to the generation mix - Gas usage is up to 60% though for the week/month. While they can switch over to Diesel if there is a problem it shows this fuel is part of the magic mix and a strategic one at that. The interconnection graphs show we're importing up to 500MW during Mon-Fri. This is regular and sustained, not good.

So, with regard to how this impacts you and I. You need to take a look at your own usage. In the event of a Gas AND Electricity shortage, how will you heat you home for short periods? You'll only drop say two degrees a day in a Passive House when it's cold outside but you could gain 7-9 degrees from the south facing windows via the Sun so you have a net gain. To top up if it's overcast, a superser gas heater is the most obvious route to go, just make sure you have a full bottle of gas lying around to keep it running as these will disappear fast. I know you can get light and cooking from the gas bottle but you need appliances geared up for it or just get a camping stove set etc. An extra gas bottle if the risk rises would be important too. Note: If buying one of these devices watch that the valve connection is compatible with Irish Bottle gas as it is different in the UK - A B&Q superser will not fit, you'll need a different regulator so watch out for this.

Now, your MHRV is powered by electricity. No, you won't suffocate if it isn't working, not overnight anyway! You need to open windows to ventilate during the daytime when the heat differential isn't as great but that should get you by. It may require additional top up heating as a result and to open a window if cooking / showering etc. Not much you can do about this.

Hot Water is interesting, assuming interruptions in the mains water due to pump issues, you're probably going to be looking at wet wipe showers and using water for cooking, reuse for washing / cleaning and flushing loos. It's at this time I think of rainwater harvesting. Now, you do need a pump to fill the header tank but a manual system could be rigged up easy enough. Assume the sewers are working to some degree or you'll need a compost toilet and careful sanitation. While the use of rainwater doesn't currently have any economic payback this is when it could assist. A water butt tank might get you by if it's just you - fill a bucket and flush the loo with it etc. Still just a consideration than a necessity. Having a 1500L+ underground tank vs a 200L Rainwater butt is the equation you'll need to balance, if you don't have it you can't use it.

Of course you can use Solar PV and a thermal or electrical store. These leak however so best case is the loss of Gas & Electricity happens in the summertime you might get by with batteries and lowering your usage. In the winter however when it's more likely to be timed for political reasons, you're not going to be able to recharge the battery even if you managed to keep it fully charged up to the time you needed it. The capacities available fall far short of what would be needed and Energy Harvesting for medium term storage in the form of hydrogen etc is not viable currently. Maybe in 10 years we'll have more options to generate in the summer and store/use in the winter.

Storing food in the garden shed, outside of the thermal envelope still provides some security. Chest freezers will stay cold for quite a while. There's a guy in Australia using his as a fridge as it loses less heat when opened so he's keeping it at 3-4 degrees C with a thermometer controlled plug. So, if you can, use up all your frozen food first, switch food to the chest freezer and see if that keeps you going for a while.

With regard to lighting, if you had a battery you could afford to run a few small loads such as LED. There is also developing country projects that use a weight to power an LED for 30 minutes before you need to reset it. That plus handheld flashlights are probably a useful backup.

https://www.indiegogo.com/projects/gravitylight-lighting-for-developing-countries#/

Assess all the other devices in your home. You car can provide a mobile phone charging point (if the network cells are operating) and a radio for receiving updates. The obvious source of it's power Petrol/Diesel is also an option.

Now a generator is an option here. They are fed with regular unleaded and can power your home. There are a lot of considerations so seek expert advice on this one. Security might be a concern as the noise it makes and all the lights you have on will be a giveaway. Ensure you have working AND tested battery powered smoke and CO detectors in your house if using a generator. As an example: A Honda model that does 7000 watts on 240V can run for 6.5 hours on 20 litres (this is when powering a full load or it can last longer, up to 18 hours on a quarter of that load). This would cost around 5K though! Honda have a great website to get more information but always speak to an expert:
http://powerequipment.honda.com/generators
A Transfer switch must be installed to ensure you are not putting yourself or electrical workers at risk. This isolates the house from the mains and prevents generator power flowing to outside your house and killing someone. Talk to an expert about this and other precautions to be used with a generator and the correct procedures in using one.

There are other scenarios that will influence matters outside of a power loss. Floods, high winds and fires can all affect power supply. It may even make it hazardous to run supplemental sources if your house is impacted / damaged. An emergency box with medical supplies, food, clean water and blankets / spare clothing might be useful if you can access it.

So, hope I've not scared you completed. There are a lot of options out there but becoming too dependant on Electricity I feel is not a good thing. Examining the energy usage patterns you build up should make you realise that any loss for more than a few hours will impact you. Keeping you and your loved ones safe will require some planning and a small investment, things to keep out in the garden shed. If a spate of power cuts actually occurs, a more substantial investment might be required.

OWL Energy Monitor

OWL Energy Monitor

I was looking at different hot water / heating options and the use of off peak electricity to charge a Sunamp PV / ASHP & Sunamp which then prompted me to question if off peak electricity would make any sense for one or two people?

I'm currently paying a tariff of €0.1665 per kWh. Offpeak would change that to €0.2024 daytime and €0.0985 nighttime (ex-VAT) plus an increase of the standing charge. They say you would need to be using over 4 units per night to make it worth while. We don't do THAT much washing to be honest!!

To determine what my household is using I purchased an OWL Energy Monitor, the cloud version:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B008MYXEHW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I got it within 2 days using priority delivery from the UK. I'm not 100% sure what the voltage is, assume 230V but have also purchased a plug in monitor for individual appliances to tell me that. So far so good, the clamp is reporting the energy usage on the mains circuit, it uses 2 x AA batteries easily replaced and I've set up an alert to tell me when they run low, an option in the Owl settings. It also displays a battery remaining graphic.

So I should get more interesting results over the next week. I already noticed when I printed out an email that my usage doubled!! Then tracing large spikes will be the next phase to understand what they are, kettles, washing machine cycles, and any unusual standing usage that aren't obvious.

Most smart meters I imagine will have this feature but as it's an older house and I don't see energy companies here being in a rush to replace them, unlike in the UK.

I'll report back when I get more stats but it's a first step to understand what my own usage is and tailor that before moving into a new home.

June 2016 Update and Self-Build Live

June 2016 Update and Self-Build Live

I find attending exhibitions a great chance to talk directly with various suppliers and to see examples of their products. While continuing the voyage of getting pre planning lined up I headed over to Bicester, UK for the day to see what the show there was like. I'd attended the Ideal home Exhibition and the Self-Build exhibition but was curious what differences I would find.

The best two contacts I made were with 'Trish in MBC timberframe and Andy from Sunamp. Besides this there were several other stands that took my interest and the talks in the afternoon when I wanted to rest my feet proved interesting..!!

MBC Timberframe

I'd heard great things about this company. They currently manufacture in Cahir, Ireland but most of their market is in the UK. Patricia was kind enough to sit down with me and answer loads of questions I had about the whole process. She is an Architectural Technician and is a PassiveHouse Designer so knows all the ins and out plus bags of experience from all the projects MBC have undertaken, what to watch out for etc which she freely shared.

The payment system was one of the first things I asked about. With an arrears based mortgage would I be able to afford to order a timber framed house? They have several stages and as each is reached they expect payment at that exact time, not 30 days hence. It's split out quite well with 6 stages so I hope the bank will play ball:

Deposit - 10%
Sign off Drawings - 15%
Delivery of Foundation - 20%
Delivery of Timber to Site - 20%
Completion of Timber erection - 20%
Completion of Air Tightness Test - 20% (using a third party which MBC pay for)

Now I know my maths is out but that gives you a rough idea, you'll need 25% to get the order booked and in their queue, that will take about 12-13 weeks currently. Once they get started you'd better have the next 60% ready as they work fast!! You should only use the information provided here as indicative, contact your timber framed provider for an official list of their pricing structure.

Some other tips/notes 'Trish provided were as follows:

• Get your roof tiler in before MBC finish up to check their finishing match up with what roofer requires to lay the tiles
• Cellecta screed board 28 is brilliant for first floor noise dampening. They usually use it in apartment builds but I read a lot about noisy 1st floor wooden floors and this product could be part of the solution. Rockwool and sound block plasterboard for rooms such as the bathroom would also be advisable! 
• They supply the twin stud without insulation and pump it - cellulose insulation (=warmcell) onsite so that it easily bridges the gaps between the panels. They use something like an apple corer to check the density of the insulation through a section of the wall afterwards
• Fill any WC's / sinks  with water and seal off any pipes / window handle holes (!) before doing the air pressure test - some failures are due to keyhole in window handles!
• Bi-Fold doors have air tightness problems - I was hoping to use them but there are only two I could find meeting Class 4 but this might not be enough
• They use Scandanavian Pine / Larch with C16/24 rating
• Cover the MHVR ducts until commissioning to prevent dust / plaster / bug contamination

Sunamp 

These are an interesting company I'd been aware of for a short while but I'd not spoken to them before. Their man Andy was very knowledgeable and I got a hot pocket which shows how their Phase Change Material stores and releases Thermal heat.

He suggested using a pair of batteries for Hot water and another for under floor heating. They can be recharged with night rate electricity and an Air Source Heat Pump. I was planning on PV but wintertime is when this will be challenging. I'm still thinking about using one of their units but want to see what my heating demand is first in the PHPP. Worth checking out though!

The main interest of mine is their ability to take in cold water and output it at 58 degrees or with a mixer, a lower temperature. I take 3 minute showers so if it's just me this could provide my daily hot water easily. I'm hoping to avoid a 300 litre hot water tank, it's just a waste for one or two people!

Rainwater harvesting

This was surprised me as they have a well thought out solution. My first question was stagnation. They have a system that automatically recycles the water in the header tank (100 litres) if it doesn't use more than 85 litres in 3 days. This just refreshes from the rainwater tank so you're not loosing anything or wasting mains water. There is a holiday button which refreshes from mains water so it doesn't go stagnant also. The header tank is the way to go I think, a direct system has less flexibility. Most of the tanks they sell are shallow dig tanks laid about 2 meters deep, they can hold 1500 - 7500 litres with various sizes. You just need to keep the water table over the top of the tank.

For prolonged power cuts there is a manual mode and they reckon the whole system costs 1p per person per day to operate. The header tank should be 1.2 meters above the highest toilet and 5 meters above the washing machine. Maintenance is simple, check the steel filter and wash out any silt with a £30 dirty water pump every few years. The pump in the tank is a sealed unit but very reliable. There is 330mm from the top of the tank to the ground so freezing should not be an issue.


There was a lot of other stands including a house they had built of ICF (without the concrete). ICF is like the lego block system of construction and interesting! I also spoke with an Enphase Rep about micro inverters and a new Lithium-Iron battery system they are releasing this year. It's IRON not Ion so has a much safer threshold necessary for domestic usage!

I also watched a presentation from Build-Zone who do structural warranties and the pictures of some of their scare stories! One house burnt down due to overloading a power extension during construction, imagine that when you're on a tea break and there's little left! Well worth checking you have sufficient reinstatement cover and read your policy documents! Get the structural warranty arranged before you start building as the inspections allow them to assess the risk, otherwise you'll pay a lot more as they have to cover themselves. Regarding theft, it usually happens within 3 days of delivery, usually someone on the build makes a call. Recording the arrival / departure of all workers helps mitigate this a bit as word will travel that their presence has been noted and blabbing about valuable materials that just arrived onsite will hopefully not happen.

Links:

http://www.mbctimberframe.co.uk
http://www.cellecta.co.uk/cellecta-brands/screedboard-acoustic-insulation-boards/screed-board-28-acoustic-floor-insulation/
http://sunamp.co.uk
http://www.rainwaterharvesting.co.uk
http://www.build-zone.com

In case you haven't heard or don't know ebuild forums are closing down and buildhub has been setup as it's spiritual successor:
http://forum.buildhub.org.uk/ipb/
This is a good place to ask advice!